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CORSTORPHINE
OLD PARISH
CHURCH
Early view of the Church from the
west.
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The story of the present church started when Sir Adam
Forrester bought lands from William More of Abercorn in 1376, and erected
a votive chapel "over and against" the then existing 12th century
parish church of St. Mary.
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Adam
Forrester was a very successful and influential burgess of
Edinburgh, and held various offices including twice being
provost of the city. In recognition of his service he was
knighted. He was owner of many lands in and around
Edinburgh, but it was when he came to Corstorphine that he
settled and built a castle.
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Adam Forrester as depicted
on the tomb in the Baptistery.
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He dedicated his chapel to St. John the Baptist. It is
not know exactly how long this church had been in existence but reference
is made to it in a Holyrood Charter of 1128. Sir Adam died in 1405 shortly
after the completion of his chapel, and would have been buried in his
chapel. The site of this is not exactly known but would have been within
the precincts of the present day church, probably in the area of the south
transept or Chancel.
His eldest son, Sir John, had succeeded him in most of
him in most of his appointments. Sir John, Master of the Household and
Lord High Chamberlain to King James I extended the chapel after his father’s
death to include what is now the tower, nave, chancel, vestry and south
transept, establishing it as the Collegiate Church of St. John the Baptist
in 1429. Within the chancel and south transept are the interesting early
Forrester tombs with their carved stone effigies and heraldic panels but
the damage and disturbance of five centuries of history make them
difficult to identify exactly.
Conformation of his foundation of a
Collegiate Church was ultimately granted in 1444 by the Pope (Eugenius),
and is commemorated in the present by a memorial tablet (see below) to the first
provost of the Collegiate Church, Nicholas Bannatyne, who guided the
churches development from 1429 until 1473.
These two churches functioned
side by side until 1593 when under the Reformation the Collage was
dissolved and all parish worship was transferred from the old church of
St. Mary to the Collegiate building.
Following the Reformation when the Collegiate Church
became the parish Kirk the chancel arch was infilled and the church
re-orientated to face a pulpit at the west end of the nave.
The Kirk was extended in 1646 by the addition of a
northern transept and a western porch, replacing the ruinous Kirk of St.
Mary. The porch is believed to have been built out of stone from the
church of St. Mary.
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Sketch of the Church by James
Skene c.1817.
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In 1650/51 the building suffered from occupation by
Cromwell’s troops. They stayed from almost twelve months and although
that was only one of several such incidents in earlier, turbulent times,
the defacement of the effigies and memorials is likely to have taken place
then.
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The extension was inadequate by the nineteenth century
and in 1828 William Burn, architect of St. John’s, Princes Street, added
a northern aisle parallel with the nave and a gallery lying over both this
aisle and the old nave, replaced the nave vault by one of lath and
plaster, and converted the chancel into an entrance porch placing his
doorway below the east window. Deplorably Burn ruined much of the original
stone carving.
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The Church from
the east after the Burn's reconstruction.
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Rev.
James Fergusson.
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In 1905, less than eighty years later, the minister,
the Rev. James Fergusson, the heritors and congregation obtained the
services of Mr. George Henderson, architect, who because of lack of space
was compelled to use Burn’s floor plan. He restored the church to its
present state. To harmonise with the stone flagged roofs of the fifteenth
century Henderson restructured the slate roofs of the altered nave and
northern transept and aisle with granolithic concrete slabs.
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Mr.
George Henderson Architect.
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The
Bannatyne Memorial Stone. |
On the east wall of
the chancel there is the memorial tablet in memory to George Henderson,
the architect in charge of the 1905 restoration. This complements the
memorial to Nicholas Bannatyne, the first Provost of the Collegiate church
in 1429, which is as the other side of the east window.
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The
Henderson Memorial Stone. |
It is fitting that
two great men in the history of the church, the first provost and the
architect that restored the building to its medieval glory are remembered
on the same wall.
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On the face of the gallery is a memorial to the Reverend
James Fergusson the minister whose inspiration initiated the restoration
of the building in 1905. Henderson produced a near medieval gem - a
building that has aptly been described as the "Corstorphine
Heirloom".
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The Interior
pre-1905 restoration
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The Interior
today (from the same point)
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A spiral stair leads from the tower vault to the
gallery and beyond to the bell chamber. Before this gallery was opened out
in 1905, the chamber had several purposes, including that of the Kirk
Session prison. This is where Betie Watson, being held for witchcraft in
1649 hung herself by the bell rope before she could be tried. The bell was
cast in 1728; the original was donated in 1577 by Sir James Forrester, and
lasted until then when it was reported to the Kirk Session that it was
"rent" and "of no use". The 1728 bell was cast from
metal, which included the original bell. This bell is still in use today
and except for both World Wars has been rung each Sunday since 1728.
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The 1728 Bell in the Tower. |
The baptistery in the south transept has the remains of
the original building, which was badly damaged during the 1828
alterations. The early medieval stone font came from Gogar church and was
installed in 1955.
The bowl, from about 1200, is roughly hewn and
originally would likely have been lined with metal. The large south window
replaced an earlier nineteenth century memorial window in 1970. The theme
being Baptism.
In the wall in the
baptistery is a six-ringed stone,
which at one time covered the burial vault of the Watson’s of Saughton
which lies beneath the floor in front of this transept. This memorial slab
is dated 1620 and has a long Roman-lettered inscription from Ezekiel,
Chapter 37. It was place in this wall in the restoration of 1905, and
covers an old doorway. The
Watson’s were influential landowners of Saughton House and estate for
about three centuries from 1537.
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The Gogar Font. |
Looking into the Baptistery. |
The Watson Stone. |
The Pulpit.
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The pulpit was carved in 1905 from Riga oak and is a
copy of the pulpit in Lutterworth Parish Church, Leicestershire. The
hourglass on the wall behind is seventeenth century, although one of the
glass bulbs is not original. The carved heads on the corbels supporting
the roof ribs were copied from Leonardo de Vinci’s "The Last
Supper" and were part of the 1905 restoration. The stone pillar
lectern was designed George Henderson as were the timber furnishings.
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The Restored Lamp lit at night. |
Look at the outside wall above the big east window. You
will see, high up, a small hollow with a lamp standing in it. This is a
modern electric light, which the Corstorphine Rotary Club funded, was
installed in the old lamp niche in 1958. When lit on winter evenings the light reminds people of
the original oil lamp that was kept there long ago by the priests to guide
travellers across the boggy ground between Edinburgh and Corstorphine. To
pay for lamp oil the church was given the rent from an acre of ground
beside the Water of Leith at Murrayfield, roughly between the Kwik-Fit
premises and the bridge over the river at Riversdale. When the lamp was
not used in the 17th century the rent of the Lamp Acre was given to the
schoolmaster as part of his wage.
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Corstorphine Old Parish Church is a building of
national interest and historic importance. It has existed for over five
and a half centuries and although its upkeep is onerous, the congregation
are resolved to ensure the survival of this part of our heritage.
The Church is open for services on Sunday at 10.30am, and is open for visitors on Wednesdays between 10.30am and 12
noon and is well worth a visit.
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Compiled by
K. Aitchison
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